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The index bar is made of 0.375" UHMW and can have two sets of index holes. You simply remove the bar from the clamps, turn it over and reattach. It has been suggested that a strip of pegboard could be used for the bar. I havent tried it yet, but I cannot see why it would not work.
Alignment of the rail to the center line of the holes to be drilled is accomplished by means of an alignment jig made from an SRK and a section of aluminum angle. First you set the rail with the router bit centered on the center line. I use a brass setup bit that has conical points on each end and a 0.25" and 0.5" shaft (one half each). This sets the distance. then I adjust the alignment guide so the edge of the aluminum angle is on the center line. I then set one end of the rail the proper distance from the line with the alignment guide and loosely clamp that end of the rail to the work piece. Slide the alignment guide to the other end of the center line, adjust and clamp that end of the rail. Go back to the other end and reset if necessary.
we just finished a project for a local interior design firm that involved making 12 new feet for 2 big couches whose feet were not really in proportion to the rest of them, or to the room where they went ... the new feet are 7" in diameter, 7" high. we glued up some blocks from8/4 and made a sample and a template for the duplicator and had at it. before will could start turning them, i cut them to length and round for him. will had recently tuned up the bandsaw, adjusted the guides, etc. etc., but i didnt realize what a good job he had done until i cut the blanks ... square ... straight ... cut after cut, through 7 " of maple ... click the photos to enlarge them ..
in response to the comment below, i am posting a link to the bandsaw blades we use
this is how they lined up across the top of a stack 3 high ... barely a 32nd difference across the tops.
the chips flew during the rough out stage ...
and made quite a pile ...
first coat of stain ... after distressing we used a second coat of english brown mahogany lockwood water stain. then a coat of oil/poly, then gel stain on the lathe spinning on low speed. the final coat of satin poly was brushed on with the feet on the lathe, and then they were transferred to the finish room to dry where you see them below. 
all in, all done ... they will be installed to the couch frames with 2 - 8" timberlock screws per foot
in the photo above, you can see a stack of 9 - .1" veneers cut sequentially and sanded after from one piece of 8/4 walnut. and 4 - 10.5" wide curly hard maple slices also from one board.