Showing posts with label and. Show all posts
Showing posts with label and. Show all posts
Sunday, March 2, 2014
Arts And Crafts Furniture Plans Wooden Ideas
arts and crafts furniture plans Building Furniture plan and Woodworking Wood Project PDF Download
arts and crafts furniture plans
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arts and crafts furniture plans
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arts and crafts furniture plans
arts and crafts furniture plans
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arts and crafts furniture plans
arts and crafts furniture plans
arts and crafts furniture plans
Monday, February 24, 2014
OUR HOME AND MY WORK FEATURED redoux and mobile home living
is featuring the french pair I did last week.
AND
wrote while featuring OUR MOBILE HOME tour.
Saturday, February 22, 2014
TGIF New projects and project updates
Hi Everyone,
Well, its hot here today and everything is in bloom and we can smell lilac all over the place. It must be the year for them.
Ive been generating a lot of small pieces of lumber and Ive been searching for projects to use them up and one of the projects Im going to start are cutting boards out of assorted hardwoods. Here are some photos and discussion:
I work mostly with domestic hardwoods such as maple, hickory, and black walnut as they are readily available and not terribly costly. I also work with red colored woods such as kempas, Brazilian cherry, and cumaru woods. These woods are also readily available and not endangered. I dont like to waste wood and so here we go- here are some thin pieces that Ive cut off of wider boards:
I decided to trim all of these pieces into uniform a thickness of 1 1/8" on the table saw so the first thing I did was rip them to that thickness and then separate them into colors:
Then I trimmed these strips into 12 1/2" lengths. Here are some for comparison:
This will become a cutting board after Ive laminated these into a turning blank:
And here are some more cutting boards waiting to be laminated together. The larger ones at the top will be cutting boards and the small ones on the bottom will become either trivets or tea box lids:
Im going to glue up all of these blanks and probably make more next week so Ill have a large supply of turning material.
Next-remember the camphor wood trays and bowl I made about a month ago? Well, I took the trays out to see how they were doing and they had dried quite a bit and there was very little distortion in the trays. So Im putting them back on the lathe for their final cutting. Here is a photo of one thats been cut and one that is waiting its turn:
The shop smells like Vicks Vaporub again! Im curious as to what these trays will look like when they are all finished.
Im going to go and make dinner and cool off with some pineapple juice--see you later this weekend.
VW
Read More..
Well, its hot here today and everything is in bloom and we can smell lilac all over the place. It must be the year for them.
Ive been generating a lot of small pieces of lumber and Ive been searching for projects to use them up and one of the projects Im going to start are cutting boards out of assorted hardwoods. Here are some photos and discussion:
I work mostly with domestic hardwoods such as maple, hickory, and black walnut as they are readily available and not terribly costly. I also work with red colored woods such as kempas, Brazilian cherry, and cumaru woods. These woods are also readily available and not endangered. I dont like to waste wood and so here we go- here are some thin pieces that Ive cut off of wider boards:
I decided to trim all of these pieces into uniform a thickness of 1 1/8" on the table saw so the first thing I did was rip them to that thickness and then separate them into colors:
Then I trimmed these strips into 12 1/2" lengths. Here are some for comparison:
Now I can play with all of these various colors and arrange and re-arrange them:
This will become a cutting board after Ive laminated these into a turning blank:
And here are some more cutting boards waiting to be laminated together. The larger ones at the top will be cutting boards and the small ones on the bottom will become either trivets or tea box lids:
Im going to glue up all of these blanks and probably make more next week so Ill have a large supply of turning material.
Next-remember the camphor wood trays and bowl I made about a month ago? Well, I took the trays out to see how they were doing and they had dried quite a bit and there was very little distortion in the trays. So Im putting them back on the lathe for their final cutting. Here is a photo of one thats been cut and one that is waiting its turn:
The shop smells like Vicks Vaporub again! Im curious as to what these trays will look like when they are all finished.
Im going to go and make dinner and cool off with some pineapple juice--see you later this weekend.
VW
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
The Calico Bowl survives hickory plate and all those wood chips
Well, the calico bowl survived and is going to be claimed by the gentleman who ordered it originally. It looks lovely and it has a polyurethane and oil finish on it. I hope the new owner enjoys it.
Unfortunately my kitchenware line isnt selling well so Im converting some of my cutting boards into plates. I turned a hickory plate this morning. Hickory is a wonderful wood to work with as its very dense and hard and it cuts cleanly and finishes with little sanding needed. Here is a photo of the latest plate:
This plate is getting a Danish oil finish and will be done in a day or two. When the oil is dried, Ill polish it with a little beeswax. Lovely way to finish wood.
Ive done a lot of turning over the past several days and I created a mountain of shavings--two full trash can bags full along with assorted scrap lumber. If anyone in the Twin Cities area would like to have the shavings and saw dust for FREE, let me know and Ill arrange to get it to you.
Im going to take tomorrow off and work on business stuff. Ill be back soon.
VW
Read More..
Unfortunately my kitchenware line isnt selling well so Im converting some of my cutting boards into plates. I turned a hickory plate this morning. Hickory is a wonderful wood to work with as its very dense and hard and it cuts cleanly and finishes with little sanding needed. Here is a photo of the latest plate:
This plate is getting a Danish oil finish and will be done in a day or two. When the oil is dried, Ill polish it with a little beeswax. Lovely way to finish wood.
Ive done a lot of turning over the past several days and I created a mountain of shavings--two full trash can bags full along with assorted scrap lumber. If anyone in the Twin Cities area would like to have the shavings and saw dust for FREE, let me know and Ill arrange to get it to you.
Im going to take tomorrow off and work on business stuff. Ill be back soon.
VW
Mosaics and Architecture
There are lots of sites out there that help mosaic enthusiasts to promote the use of the art in architecture. These websites can help you with the basic instructions and design ideas. You can also find helpful links where you can get affordable and top quality mosaic supplies for all your projects.
Mosaic is a Greek word which means ‘patient work’. Indeed, you must be patient as a mosaic artist. You can’t finish the work overnight, even a small project.
Ancient mosaic works have survived through the centuries and this shows how great the art works were back in the olden times. You can find lots of mosaics in the different countries all over the world.
Because of its beauty and uniqueness, some buildings and establishments are now incorporating it in their interior designs. It can now be used in architectural applications but you need to find a good and established team of artists to carry out the project for you.
Throughout recorded history, the ancient people have already used mosaic in architecture. For example, the Roman Empire was quite known for mosaics. Roman structures boast of mosaic floors with various patterns and designs. The designs tell a story about the past. If you try to observe the many mosaic relics, you will notice that most of them feature nature scenes, people, animals, gods, and many other subjects. Bible characters are also shown in some mosaic works which tell a lot about religion and the ancient beliefs. Classy constructions can also be found in fountains and pools.
Mosaics are now very popular and it is being used in different surfaces. Artists are now using different materials –from square tiles to pebbles, and all of these materials give outstanding results. In architecture, the most common mosaic materials used are natural stones and ceramic tiles. These materials provide a smooth surface and so they can be used mostly in floor mosaics. If you’re planning to create a wall mosaic design, you can use rough textured materials. Some of the wall mosaics are first laid out on a board and later on mounted to the wall. However, there are also mosaic artists who directly install the tesserae on the walls using mortar to hold the tiles together and grout to fill in the spaces.
You can create interesting architecture by using your imagination. You should be inspired with your work so that you can create simple and unique designs. Through centuries, mosaic is a thriving art. Lasting techniques were already developed to create great impressions. If you want, you can even use ancient mosaic techniques because time has already tested their beauty and fineness.
Lots of homeowners are now incorporating mosaic in their overall home design. You can also find mosaic designs in offices and vacation homes. Throughout the Roman Empire in the 3rd century, mosaic was widespread. In Ravenna Italy, you can find glass mosaics dating back to the 6th century and until now, the glass still shine with bright colors. If you try to compare the glass mosaics with painted frescos, the latter softly fades.
If you want to include mosaic in your home’s architecture or even your office, contact the experts. There are also do-it-yourself mosaic projects which are easy to construct. Mosaic and architecture goes hand in hand especially in the old times; why don’t you try the design in today’s modern world?
Read More..
Mosaic is a Greek word which means ‘patient work’. Indeed, you must be patient as a mosaic artist. You can’t finish the work overnight, even a small project.
Ancient mosaic works have survived through the centuries and this shows how great the art works were back in the olden times. You can find lots of mosaics in the different countries all over the world.
Because of its beauty and uniqueness, some buildings and establishments are now incorporating it in their interior designs. It can now be used in architectural applications but you need to find a good and established team of artists to carry out the project for you.
Throughout recorded history, the ancient people have already used mosaic in architecture. For example, the Roman Empire was quite known for mosaics. Roman structures boast of mosaic floors with various patterns and designs. The designs tell a story about the past. If you try to observe the many mosaic relics, you will notice that most of them feature nature scenes, people, animals, gods, and many other subjects. Bible characters are also shown in some mosaic works which tell a lot about religion and the ancient beliefs. Classy constructions can also be found in fountains and pools.
Mosaics are now very popular and it is being used in different surfaces. Artists are now using different materials –from square tiles to pebbles, and all of these materials give outstanding results. In architecture, the most common mosaic materials used are natural stones and ceramic tiles. These materials provide a smooth surface and so they can be used mostly in floor mosaics. If you’re planning to create a wall mosaic design, you can use rough textured materials. Some of the wall mosaics are first laid out on a board and later on mounted to the wall. However, there are also mosaic artists who directly install the tesserae on the walls using mortar to hold the tiles together and grout to fill in the spaces.
You can create interesting architecture by using your imagination. You should be inspired with your work so that you can create simple and unique designs. Through centuries, mosaic is a thriving art. Lasting techniques were already developed to create great impressions. If you want, you can even use ancient mosaic techniques because time has already tested their beauty and fineness.
Lots of homeowners are now incorporating mosaic in their overall home design. You can also find mosaic designs in offices and vacation homes. Throughout the Roman Empire in the 3rd century, mosaic was widespread. In Ravenna Italy, you can find glass mosaics dating back to the 6th century and until now, the glass still shine with bright colors. If you try to compare the glass mosaics with painted frescos, the latter softly fades.
If you want to include mosaic in your home’s architecture or even your office, contact the experts. There are also do-it-yourself mosaic projects which are easy to construct. Mosaic and architecture goes hand in hand especially in the old times; why don’t you try the design in today’s modern world?
Tuesday, February 18, 2014
Tips for Applying Stain and Finish to your Woodworking Projects
Here are some useful tips regarding the staining and applying the
finishing coats on your woodworking projects.
Allow a day or so for the dust to settle after you have been sanding.
If your workshop has any type of dust removal or air cleaner be sure
they are turned on while sanding and when applying your finishing
coats.
Remove any dust that may be on your woodworking project prior to
staining it. You can use a vacuum cleaner to accomplish this or use a
tack cloth. The tack cloth generally will do a better job of removing
most of the dust.
Protect your hands from a long clean up! Get some decent gloves that
you can wear and then throw achoice when finished.
Cover the work area and floor with plastic to protect them from those
accidental spills and drips.
Stain is usually best applied with a high quality foam brush.
Let the stain penetrate for about 45 minutes and the using a lint free
cloth wipe it off. This will help give the wood a uniform color.
Allow the stain to dry for a day and then apply a second coat. Rub
this coat off after about 30 minutes. This will give the project a
richer finish.
After allowing the second coat to dry to a day you may apply a third
coat depending on the color you want to achieve.
Let the stain on your woodworking project dry for several days. It
should be completely dry before applying the finishing coat.
Take your vacuum cleaner or tack cloth and again remove any dust that
may have settled on your project.
Apply your fast drying polyurethane using a foam brush. I usually use
MinWax which takes about four hours to dry. Alchoices brush in one
direction. Make very light strokes down the entire length of the
project. Make sure the polyurethane is not drying while you are
applying it to your project. You will usually need two coats.
Now wait three days and apply a final finish. This will give your
woodworking project an incredible professional look.
If you follow these steps carefully you will end up with an incredible
looking item. So the next time you are ready to apply the final
touches to your woodworking project try out this method I outlined
above.
Read More..
finishing coats on your woodworking projects.
Allow a day or so for the dust to settle after you have been sanding.
If your workshop has any type of dust removal or air cleaner be sure
they are turned on while sanding and when applying your finishing
coats.
Remove any dust that may be on your woodworking project prior to
staining it. You can use a vacuum cleaner to accomplish this or use a
tack cloth. The tack cloth generally will do a better job of removing
most of the dust.
Protect your hands from a long clean up! Get some decent gloves that
you can wear and then throw achoice when finished.
Cover the work area and floor with plastic to protect them from those
accidental spills and drips.
Stain is usually best applied with a high quality foam brush.
Let the stain penetrate for about 45 minutes and the using a lint free
cloth wipe it off. This will help give the wood a uniform color.
Allow the stain to dry for a day and then apply a second coat. Rub
this coat off after about 30 minutes. This will give the project a
richer finish.
After allowing the second coat to dry to a day you may apply a third
coat depending on the color you want to achieve.
Let the stain on your woodworking project dry for several days. It
should be completely dry before applying the finishing coat.
Take your vacuum cleaner or tack cloth and again remove any dust that
may have settled on your project.
Apply your fast drying polyurethane using a foam brush. I usually use
MinWax which takes about four hours to dry. Alchoices brush in one
direction. Make very light strokes down the entire length of the
project. Make sure the polyurethane is not drying while you are
applying it to your project. You will usually need two coats.
Now wait three days and apply a final finish. This will give your
woodworking project an incredible professional look.
If you follow these steps carefully you will end up with an incredible
looking item. So the next time you are ready to apply the final
touches to your woodworking project try out this method I outlined
above.
Wednesday, February 12, 2014
White Oak and Black Stout
Building an Exterior Door by Hand
Well Ive been at it this week, working through the door construction. So far so good as they say; the Oak is straight grained, heavy as sin and its aroma through my basement shop is intoxicating. A good start Ill give you a look at the process thus far. Enjoy...
The first step and biggest challenge in the basement wood shop is space, or lack there of. I started with making a full size pattern or template showing all of the door components to scale-the joinery, mortise depth, haunches etc...this will go far at eliminating any unforeseen challenges on my way through the lay out stage. Take your time with this and make things accurate! Skipping a step or cutting a corner would be completely counter productive, square, straight and true this is my map to Heritage Doorville...I have to follow the road. The 1/4" piece of Luan is great for this template, I screwed some hardwood offcuts on the underside of the pattern and affixed it to my shop bents in front of my workbench. Space is limited so I have to work clean. This project will really be a test of patience in this small work space.
With an accurate template its time to start muscling the heavy planks of Oak around the shop, again the only hard part and sometimes frustrating thing about a small workspace. Ill begin by selecting my timber, carefully studying the grain patterns for a nice aesthetic and gentle flow throughout the finished piece. Again Im drawn into the grain of this quarter sawn timber...its amazing and humbling to think of this tree as a living thing-so beautiful I really feel lucky to be working with such fine stock. I clearly and carefully mark each component and begin cross cutting my lengths to just over finished sizes. My joinery for the rails consist of 3" mortise and tenons with haunches on the upper and lower rails. The middle or locking rail doesnt have haunched shoulders but both the mid and lower one will be split into two tenons due to the width of the pieces. Cross cutting 7/4 stock is a challenge in itself so I have to consider my options here. Saw bench with panel saw? Hook on my work bench with a back saw? I tried both and decided I had much more control and a far more accurate saw cut with the back saw. My 12" Lie Nielsen Tenon saw is up for the challenge; these cuts are at the absolute top of the size of stock I could work with this saw plate. I actually had to make two cuts from both sides-a procedure I try to avoid but is my only option on this day. If I had my Bad Axe 16" or 18" back saws this would be a much better operation but unfortunately theyre still a few weeks away...Ill go through the entire lot and get everything to size, from here its over to the saw bench and my rip saw will be introduced.
Again, ripping 7/4 white Oak by hand is not for everyone...I purchased this lumber pre-dimensioned but as you can see I still have to work each piece by hand. The pre-dimensioning really saves me some time early on; buying rough stock is great for my own work but a commission like this justifies the extra expense. You can usually be safe with a 10% increase on the total cut list when pricing a piece. For me the additional hundred dollars spent on my thousand for wood is well worth it. At least a week of time saved. By pre-dimensioned lumber I mean its been surface planned on both faces and jointed on its edges. Ill still hand plane each square inch of this stuff but only to remove the mill marks. A good investment when youre trying to make a buck while working wood with only hand tools this is something I get asked about quite often. So consider that a trade secret revealed.
Ill start off with my new Lie Nielsen panel gauge to establish the width of the pieces. I find my regular marking gauge is great for thinner jobs but anything over the 5 or 6" mark and it tends to wander a bit. The marking gauge doesnt but my control over the cut can. This panel gauge is great for this procedure. My full size Corporate Kangaroo is just getting by with the job...I have a new Rip saw in my future for the next door project but youll have to stay tuned for that one! In the shot above you can see my limited space here between the work bench and the tool cabinet; I usually do all of my sawing on the other side of the bench which is currently where the full-size door template is set up. Work clean and Patience of Job...gotta keep reminding myself that!
Alright, the components are cross cut and ripped, from here its on to hand plane alley. A welcome place to be after the day of sawing; my shoulders are thanking me already. Ill begin with my Jack plane and go across the width of the pieces taking a traversing/controlled tear shaving.
The same procedure when using a scrub plane this process will quickly get these planks flattened out. Youd be surprised at the slight hollows and tiny hills...even off of the fine machinery they have out at A & M Wood, there is still work to be done to get these things square on four sides.
A light cut is necessary with this cross grain technique and always be careful on the outside edge especially when running at the opposing angle to the grain. A few passes back and forth, end to end then Ill go with the grain to finish off. I establish the first flat surface and then Ill do the opposite side making it parallel to this first one. With two flat surfaces Ill get into the shoulder vise and get out the Jointing plane. Because Im paranoid about keeping everything dead accurate with this project Im using my Veritas Jointing fence. This is an accessory they sell that clamps onto the side body of their Bevel up Jointing plane and makes sure youre planning an edge square to the first registered surface.
A good day spent surfacing the Oak and Im finally starting to see how the door will look. This is getting exciting, the grain flowing naturally across the heavy timbers I began to appreciate just how heavy and strong this door will be when finished. I can now move on to joinery lay out and the two long stiles are the place to begin.
As I mentioned theyll have haunched mortise and tenons with two at each of the locking and lower rails. The upper rail being only 5" in width will only have one plus the two outside shoulders. These shoulders or haunches will really help to avoid any twisting or winding in the finished door.
Ill clamp the stiles together and mark them off simultaneously ensuring a truly accurate lay-out. This is just penciled in and Ill come back with a deep marking gauge and knife to make the locations permanent.
With the mortises all laid out its time to bet my brace and a bit together. Coincidentally about three weeks ago I stopped by a local antique store and found some nice old 8" Irwin Auger bits. These things looked like they didnt see much work in their life so a quick sharpening and they were ready to go. Good bits are still hard to come by but I did notice Tools for Working Wood sell some new ones that Im interested in. These 8" antiques were a perfect length for this application, anything longer and Id have to work with the timber on my floor.
A few hours of drilling and the bulk of material in my mortises is removed. For anyone interested in a good arm toning work out then this is it! Im feeling the burn in the backs of my arms for sure. A good honest days work and Im thinking about the tenons tonight. So to back track to the title of this post...a good black stout goes down some fine with the smell of white oak lingering. Stay tuned for more.
Cheers!
PS.
The stout was enjoyed after the tools went away for anyone concerned with my personal safety.
Read More..
Well Ive been at it this week, working through the door construction. So far so good as they say; the Oak is straight grained, heavy as sin and its aroma through my basement shop is intoxicating. A good start Ill give you a look at the process thus far. Enjoy...
The first step and biggest challenge in the basement wood shop is space, or lack there of. I started with making a full size pattern or template showing all of the door components to scale-the joinery, mortise depth, haunches etc...this will go far at eliminating any unforeseen challenges on my way through the lay out stage. Take your time with this and make things accurate! Skipping a step or cutting a corner would be completely counter productive, square, straight and true this is my map to Heritage Doorville...I have to follow the road. The 1/4" piece of Luan is great for this template, I screwed some hardwood offcuts on the underside of the pattern and affixed it to my shop bents in front of my workbench. Space is limited so I have to work clean. This project will really be a test of patience in this small work space.
With an accurate template its time to start muscling the heavy planks of Oak around the shop, again the only hard part and sometimes frustrating thing about a small workspace. Ill begin by selecting my timber, carefully studying the grain patterns for a nice aesthetic and gentle flow throughout the finished piece. Again Im drawn into the grain of this quarter sawn timber...its amazing and humbling to think of this tree as a living thing-so beautiful I really feel lucky to be working with such fine stock. I clearly and carefully mark each component and begin cross cutting my lengths to just over finished sizes. My joinery for the rails consist of 3" mortise and tenons with haunches on the upper and lower rails. The middle or locking rail doesnt have haunched shoulders but both the mid and lower one will be split into two tenons due to the width of the pieces. Cross cutting 7/4 stock is a challenge in itself so I have to consider my options here. Saw bench with panel saw? Hook on my work bench with a back saw? I tried both and decided I had much more control and a far more accurate saw cut with the back saw. My 12" Lie Nielsen Tenon saw is up for the challenge; these cuts are at the absolute top of the size of stock I could work with this saw plate. I actually had to make two cuts from both sides-a procedure I try to avoid but is my only option on this day. If I had my Bad Axe 16" or 18" back saws this would be a much better operation but unfortunately theyre still a few weeks away...Ill go through the entire lot and get everything to size, from here its over to the saw bench and my rip saw will be introduced.
Again, ripping 7/4 white Oak by hand is not for everyone...I purchased this lumber pre-dimensioned but as you can see I still have to work each piece by hand. The pre-dimensioning really saves me some time early on; buying rough stock is great for my own work but a commission like this justifies the extra expense. You can usually be safe with a 10% increase on the total cut list when pricing a piece. For me the additional hundred dollars spent on my thousand for wood is well worth it. At least a week of time saved. By pre-dimensioned lumber I mean its been surface planned on both faces and jointed on its edges. Ill still hand plane each square inch of this stuff but only to remove the mill marks. A good investment when youre trying to make a buck while working wood with only hand tools this is something I get asked about quite often. So consider that a trade secret revealed.
Ill start off with my new Lie Nielsen panel gauge to establish the width of the pieces. I find my regular marking gauge is great for thinner jobs but anything over the 5 or 6" mark and it tends to wander a bit. The marking gauge doesnt but my control over the cut can. This panel gauge is great for this procedure. My full size Corporate Kangaroo is just getting by with the job...I have a new Rip saw in my future for the next door project but youll have to stay tuned for that one! In the shot above you can see my limited space here between the work bench and the tool cabinet; I usually do all of my sawing on the other side of the bench which is currently where the full-size door template is set up. Work clean and Patience of Job...gotta keep reminding myself that!Alright, the components are cross cut and ripped, from here its on to hand plane alley. A welcome place to be after the day of sawing; my shoulders are thanking me already. Ill begin with my Jack plane and go across the width of the pieces taking a traversing/controlled tear shaving.
The same procedure when using a scrub plane this process will quickly get these planks flattened out. Youd be surprised at the slight hollows and tiny hills...even off of the fine machinery they have out at A & M Wood, there is still work to be done to get these things square on four sides.
A light cut is necessary with this cross grain technique and always be careful on the outside edge especially when running at the opposing angle to the grain. A few passes back and forth, end to end then Ill go with the grain to finish off. I establish the first flat surface and then Ill do the opposite side making it parallel to this first one. With two flat surfaces Ill get into the shoulder vise and get out the Jointing plane. Because Im paranoid about keeping everything dead accurate with this project Im using my Veritas Jointing fence. This is an accessory they sell that clamps onto the side body of their Bevel up Jointing plane and makes sure youre planning an edge square to the first registered surface.
A good day spent surfacing the Oak and Im finally starting to see how the door will look. This is getting exciting, the grain flowing naturally across the heavy timbers I began to appreciate just how heavy and strong this door will be when finished. I can now move on to joinery lay out and the two long stiles are the place to begin.
As I mentioned theyll have haunched mortise and tenons with two at each of the locking and lower rails. The upper rail being only 5" in width will only have one plus the two outside shoulders. These shoulders or haunches will really help to avoid any twisting or winding in the finished door.
Ill clamp the stiles together and mark them off simultaneously ensuring a truly accurate lay-out. This is just penciled in and Ill come back with a deep marking gauge and knife to make the locations permanent.
With the mortises all laid out its time to bet my brace and a bit together. Coincidentally about three weeks ago I stopped by a local antique store and found some nice old 8" Irwin Auger bits. These things looked like they didnt see much work in their life so a quick sharpening and they were ready to go. Good bits are still hard to come by but I did notice Tools for Working Wood sell some new ones that Im interested in. These 8" antiques were a perfect length for this application, anything longer and Id have to work with the timber on my floor.A few hours of drilling and the bulk of material in my mortises is removed. For anyone interested in a good arm toning work out then this is it! Im feeling the burn in the backs of my arms for sure. A good honest days work and Im thinking about the tenons tonight. So to back track to the title of this post...a good black stout goes down some fine with the smell of white oak lingering. Stay tuned for more.
Cheers!
PS.
The stout was enjoyed after the tools went away for anyone concerned with my personal safety.
and my paint project was
Hi! Good news! We made it to the final round of Creating with the Stars!! Final voting starts on Monday, so make sure to come back then for more info!!
We ended up photographing our new secretary in the garage since it was SO heavy! It doesnt look too bad, but I could barely pick up my side. We have no where to put it, so well be selling it!
We started with a piece from Goodwill, they were remodeling the back end of the building so we got it for 50% off, which ended up at $30. Im thinking the drop panel was originally intended to be a dry bar, Goodwill even had it "staged" with an ice bucket and martini glasses ...
We decided to turn it into a secretary desk and I love the new layout! We also added little feet to help it look not as bottom heavy and swapped the hardware for something smaller.
We designed the stencils in the computer and cut them out on the silhouette. The big one is 9 - 12x12 sheets that were taped together!
and a few behind the scenes shots ...
This stencil was pretty exhausting since it was so big, I had to hold down the stencil as I went since it didnt want to stay flat on the wall. We did photograph it in the garage, but there is concrete there! I picked up some cheap (about $1 a ft) laminate from Home Depot. It looked nice for the price, I wonder if it would hold up well? Finally, when styling, Im a big place it and step back to see what it looks like, David was nice enough to move things around for me :)
I found these brass pieces at a local antique store, only a few dollars each!
Vase and pencil holder are votive containers from Target.
I was so excited to see ranunculus, my second favorite flower (favorite peonies)
See how thick that door is!? The doors alone were super heavy!
I really love it :) I hope you do too!! Im off to work on my final project!! :) Wish me luck!
Read More..
We ended up photographing our new secretary in the garage since it was SO heavy! It doesnt look too bad, but I could barely pick up my side. We have no where to put it, so well be selling it!
We started with a piece from Goodwill, they were remodeling the back end of the building so we got it for 50% off, which ended up at $30. Im thinking the drop panel was originally intended to be a dry bar, Goodwill even had it "staged" with an ice bucket and martini glasses ...
We decided to turn it into a secretary desk and I love the new layout! We also added little feet to help it look not as bottom heavy and swapped the hardware for something smaller.
We designed the stencils in the computer and cut them out on the silhouette. The big one is 9 - 12x12 sheets that were taped together!
and a few behind the scenes shots ...
This stencil was pretty exhausting since it was so big, I had to hold down the stencil as I went since it didnt want to stay flat on the wall. We did photograph it in the garage, but there is concrete there! I picked up some cheap (about $1 a ft) laminate from Home Depot. It looked nice for the price, I wonder if it would hold up well? Finally, when styling, Im a big place it and step back to see what it looks like, David was nice enough to move things around for me :)
I found these brass pieces at a local antique store, only a few dollars each!
Vase and pencil holder are votive containers from Target.
I was so excited to see ranunculus, my second favorite flower (favorite peonies)
See how thick that door is!? The doors alone were super heavy!
Tuesday, February 11, 2014
Woodstove Fence Mortise and Tenon Joints
The fence work continues...
On to the mortise and tenon joints!
My tool kit for this part included: my new Gramercy holdfasts (thanks sweetie!), mallet, big-boy mortising chisel (almost silly large), smaller chisel for cleaning up the bottom of the mortises, mortise gauge, square, folding rule, knife and my LN dovetail saw. Heres a shot of the bench top after several hours of work.
The piece in the center is a combination layout gauge and M&T tester for this project. I tried a new technique for chopping the mortises that I read about a while ago over at Peter Follansbees blog - it worked great. A little too great maybe, as I really got into a groove with the mortising - so much so I forgot to take pictures! About all I can offer is a shot of the tester confirming that the mortises are the correct size and depth.
I did remember to take some shots of the tenons being marked and cut.
A final test, and thats one more done...out of 50 total...sigh.
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